Lecture 11 - Fashion As Photography - Notes

Original Notes

Revisted...

The Body In Fashion Photography

Disappearance of the body

Fashion still life

produced on a polished pewter plate covered with a petroleum derivative called bitumen of Judea, which he then dissolved in white petroleum. Bitumen hardens with exposure to light. The unhardened material may then be washed away and the metal plate polished, rendering a positive image with light regions of hardened bitumen and dark regions of bare pewter. Niépce then began experimenting with silver compounds based on a Johann Heinrich Schultz discovery in 1727 that silver nitrate (AgNO3) darkens when exposed to light.

Refined the silver nitrate process. In 1833 Niépce died of a stroke, leaving his notes to Daguerre. On January 7, 1839 Daguerre announced that he had invented a process using silver on a copper plate called the daguerreotype,

first-ever photograph of a person. It is an image of a busy street, but because exposure time was over ten minutes, the city traffic was moving too much to appear. The exception is a man in the bottom left corner, who stood still getting his boots polished long enough to show up in the picture.

In 1832, French-Brazilian painter and inventor Hercules Florence had already created a very similar process, naming it Photographie.

a Tuscan noblewoman at the court of Napoleon III

In 1856, Adolphe Braun published a book containing 288 photographs of her so she becomes one of the first fashion models.

Early modern fashion shoot

He was a photographer for the Condé Nast magazines Vogue and Vanity Fair from 1923–1938, and concurrently worked for many advertising agencies including J. Walter Thompson. During these years Steichen was regarded as the best known and highest paid photographer in the world

While at MoMA, in 1955 he curated and assembled the exhibit The Family of Man.

though perhaps best known for freeing women from corsets and for his startling inventions including hobble skirts, "harem" pantaloons, and "lampshade" tunics, Poiret's major contribution to fashion was his development of an approach to dressmaking centered on draping, a radical departure from the tailoring and pattern-making of the past. Poiret was influenced by antique and regional dress, and favored clothing cut along straight lines and constructed of rectangles. The structural simplicity of his clothing represented a "pivotal moment in the emergence of modernism" generally, and "effectively established the paradigm of modern fashion, irrevocably changing the direction of costume history.

six volumes of diaries were published, spanning the years 1922–1974. Recently a number of unexpurgated diaries have been published. These differ immensely in places to Beaton's original publications. Fearing libel suits in his own lifetime, it would have been foolhardy for Beaton to have included some of his more frank and incisive observations.

a group of bohemian young aristocrats and socialites in 1920s London. They threw elaborate fancy dress parties, went on elaborate treasure hunts through nighttime London, and drank heavily and experimented with drugs—all of which was enthusiastically covered by the journalists such as Tom Driberg. They inspired a number of writers, including Nancy Mitford (Highland Fling), Anthony Powell (A Dance to the Music of Time), Henry Green (Party Going) and the poet John Betjeman (A Subaltern's Love Song). Evelyn Waugh's 1930 novel Vile Bodies is a satirical look at this scene. Cecil Beaton began his career in photography by documenting this set, of which he was a member.

Cindy Sherman

In 1935, American Kodak introduced the first modern "integral tripack" colour film and called it Kodachrome

40’s 50’s hollywood glamour, retouching lighting- more to do with portraiture and celebrity .

British Vogue

The film Blowup (1966), directed by Michelangelo Antonioni, concerns the work and sexual habits of a London fashion photographer played by David Hemmings and is largely based on Bailey.

he "Swinging London" scene was aptly reflected in his Box of Pin-Ups (1964): a box of poster-prints of 1960s celebrities and socialites including Terence Stamp, The Beatles, Mick Jagger, Jean Shrimpton, PJ Proby, Cecil Beaton, Rudolf Nureyev, Andy Warhol and notorious East End gangsters the Kray twins.

Teller studied at the Bayerische Staatslehranstalt für Photographie in Munich, Germany (1984–1986). He emigrated to London, England in 1986.

Teller's fashion photographs have been featured in The Face,Vogue (US, France, England, Italy), Another, Index, W Magazine, Self Service, Details, Purple, i-D, and 032c, among others. Since 2004, Teller has shot campaigns for Marc Jacobs. He has also shot campaigns for Vivienne Westwood. Teller has recently collaborated with Céline.

He frequently works with the musician Björk.